I've put together a blog post as a reference for those deciding on the best way to preserve the memory of a loved one through jewelry.
Memorial jewelry, essentially keepsake jewelry, can encompass ashes, hair, remnants of clothing, gravesite soil, or any item that holds sentimental value to remember a lost loved one.
The creation of memorial jewelry comes in various styles, with the most popular being ashes mixed with resin poured directly into a setting or poured into a mold and then set in jewelry.
Numerous jewelers specialize in this style of jewelry, and it's no surprise why – it's affordable and falls within most people's price range.
As a jeweler specializing in traditional goldsmithing techniques, I have reservations about incorporating any kind of glue in my jewelry. I don't mean to criticize jewelers who create this type of jewelry, but one of my key priorities is crafting pieces that endure and can be easily repaired, resized, and re-polished throughout their lifetime.
In essence, resin jewelry, especially when worn daily, lacks longevity. It essentially consists of plastic. Despite my efforts to gather information on whether to include resin in the memorial pieces I create, there's one unavoidable issue - it tends to yellow. Over time, all resin will exhibit a yellowing effect.
For a frequently worn item like a ring, wearing it daily is likely to result in noticeable damage within just a few months.
In the case of daily wear rings, like wedding and engagement rings, I advise against using any stone that ranks below 8 on the Mohs scale, with 7.5 being the minimum acceptable. To put it in perspective, resin would fall at around 2.5 on the Mohs scale. Considering this, along with its tendency to yellow over time, I don't want to include resin in the type of jewelry I create.
I thought about incorporating ashes or hair into resin and placing a stone on top. However, the problem of the resin turning yellow over time would remain. Some resin jewelers insist that their products won't yellow, but I suspect this might only be true if you wear the piece occasionally and store it in a dark place. UV exposure is the culprit for yellowing, and even resins with UV inhibitors and purple pigments will eventually turn yellow if exposed daily to UV light.
Producers of premium resin primarily design their products for surfaces, coatings and void pours not specifically with jewelry in mind. These resins aren't formulated to withstand the wear and tear, contact with body oils, lotions, and perfumes that jewelry typically encounters on a daily basis.
Many individuals who buy memorial jewelry aim to keep their loved ones close at all times. For me, this necessitates using materials that can endure daily wear and the challenges of everyday life.
In crafting memorial jewelry, I adopt an "urn" style. This involves creating a piece with a designated chamber for holding ashes or hair, topped with a clear jewel. This design allows for a visible window to the ashes or keepsake, providing a meaningful connection.
Doing it this way means you can combine precious metals with a hard gemstone that can withstand daily wear.
The downside of preserving ashes and other items in this manner is its susceptibility to water. Ashes have a crumbly sandstone-like texture, and when mixed with water, they can form a slurry. Small amounts of this slurry may seep through minuscule gaps in the setting, as it's not completely water-tight. When the ash slurry dries underneath the stone, it leaves a smudgy appearance. While not catastrophic, it does mean you might lose some clarity when looking through the stone.
If you inadvertently shower or bathe with your non-resin ashes jewelry, it's not the end of the world. However, you'll need to let it air-dry in a warm, dry place afterward.
If you're preserving hair, it's crucial to avoid any submersion in water. Moisture trapped beneath the stone could create an environment for mold growth. Additionally, it ccould leave a watermark on the underside of the stone due to minerals in the water once it dries.
Typically, when using clear stones in regular jewelry, you can clean the piece with water and soap to eliminate grime build-up, especially on open-backed pieces. However, this option isn't viable for non-resin memorial jewelry since they are enclosed. Therefore, it's crucial to carefully consider the type of jewelry you choose to wear.
Although it's feasible to craft a ring with ashes, I advise against it. Personally, I couldn't commit to the care required to remove it every time I washed my hands (I’d definitely forget), and I wouldn't expect my customers to either if they are planning on wearing the piece every day. Hence, I limit my creations to pendants and earrings/bracelets or make sure the customer is fully aware of the care requirements associated with a memorial ring.
So in summary here is a list of pros and cons for resin and traditionally made keepsake jewelry.
For resin memorial jewelry
Pros:
• Affordable
• Water resistant
• if worn occasionally could work as a ring
Cons:
• Will not stand up to daily wear
• Will yellow over time
• Keepsakes cannot be removed once set in resin
• Irreparable
• Not recommended for daily-worn rings
For traditionally set memorial jewelry
Pros:
• Can withstand daily wear
• Can be repaired because keepsake can be removed before being worked
• Will last a lifetime like other fine jewelry
• Can be passed as an heirloom
Cons:
• Cannot get wet/submerged
• Not recommended for rings
• Expensive
In my opinion the best form of memorial jewelry is a keepsake as a pendant. There’s less chance of you forgetting to remove it before showering and it won’t have to stand up to the rigors that a ring would. Treat it like you would a photo locket or an Ethiopian opal.
I hope this provides you with some insights. I don't want to discourage you from getting memorial jewelry in any form, but I've noticed that not enough keepsake jewelers are entirely transparent about the durability and care requirements of their creations, whether made in resin or through traditional methods.
Owning a keepsake piece of jewelry is a truly beautiful way to keep your loved one close to you, allowing their memory to become a tangible and cherished part of your everyday life. The unique and personalized nature of keepsake jewelry, crafted with utmost care and attention to detail, captures the essence of your loved one, creating a lasting connection that goes beyond mere sentiment.
If you're considering this meaningful journey, don't hesitate to explore the option of commissioning keepsake jewelry, as it can serve as a profound and enduring tribute to the special bond you shared. Feel free to email me to discuss how we can create a personalized keepsake that beautifully honors your loved one.
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One of the most exciting aspects of this collection was using stones from my current collection. I was able to gather some beautiful pieces and incorporate them into the new designs. It felt like breathing new life into old friends, ones that had been sitting in a drawer untouched for years just waiting to show their beauty.
As I worked with the raw and faceted stones, I began to see a theme emerge. I envisioned an underwater world full of mermaids, and I knew that I had to bring that vision to life. Each piece was designed with the mermaid theme in mind, but also designed to stand alone as a unique and beautiful work of art.
Creating the perfect setting for photographing the pieces was also an adventure. I wanted to capture the essence of the ocean, but I didn't have a tropical oasis beach nearby. So, I got creative and made my own DIY "beach" setup in my backyard. It was a bit of a challenge, but I had so much fun doing it!
Launch day yesterday was exhilarating, and I was blown away by the positive feedback and support from my customers and followers.
I have a feeling there's someone out there who needs to add a little bit of that mermaid magic to their jewelry collection.
If that's you, head over to my website to explore the remaining pieces and find the one that speaks to your soul. I can't wait to see where these enchanting pieces end up.
Congratulations on your upcoming wedding! Choosing a men's wedding ring is a significant decision as it is something you will wear every day for the rest of your life. With so many options available, it can be challenging to pick the perfect one. In this blog post, I will discuss the seven most important things to consider when choosing your wedding ring.
1) Metal Type: The first thing to consider is the metal type. Some of the popular options include gold, platinum, and palladium. There's also the contemporary metals such as titanium and tungsten. Each metal type has its unique characteristics and price point.
Gold is a classic option, while platinum is durable and silver is affordable. Titanium and other contemporary metals are popular choices for their durability and affordability but they are often mass produced overseas and cannot be resized at all. I don't personally work with contemporary metals but there are plenty of great artisans who do and who can advise on their characteristics.
2) Size: Getting the finger size right can be a challenging task, especially if someone is not accustomed to wearing a ring. Often, the ring may need to be readjusted shortly after receiving it, once the wearer has become accustomed to the sensation. Additionally, most people experience slight fluctuations in finger size throughout the day and between seasons with varying temperatures. To avoid a ring that is too loose, a helpful rule of thumb is to check if it falls off when you shake your hand.
3) Style: wedding rings come in various styles. The shape of the band is referred to as the profile. If you were to slice through the band and examine the cross section of the metal, that would be the profile shape. There are two main profiles: Half Round and Flat. There are distinct visual differences between the primary profiles, and most people will generally have a preference for one or the other.
Thickness of the band should also be considered. If you have a preference for band thickness, it can be taken into account with the profile shape. I don't recommend anything thinner than 1.2mm, anything thinner and you may see it distort over time.
4) Comfort: Comfort is a critical factor when buying a wedding ring. You'll be wearing it every day, so it's important to choose a ring that will feel comfortable on your finger. Comfort fit bands are curved on the inside, providing a comfortable fit for extended wear. This can range from a slight to extreme inner curve. Don't go for something highly textured or big and chunky with high set stones if you are not used to wearing rings.
5) Maintenance: Different metals require different levels of maintenance. For example, if you like the look of oxidized/blackened silver then you need to know that you'll be re-dipping your piece every few weeks to keep the oxidized look. Depending on your chosen finish it is important to understand it is a surface finish only and over time a matte finish will polish up a little and a bright polish will dull, simply due to the characteristics of daily wearing.
6) Budget: Wedding rings come at different price points. It's essential to have a budget in mind before making a purchase. Gold and platinum rings will be more expensive than contemporary metals or silver. Set a budget that works for you, and then choose a ring that fits within that budget. Thickness, width and design will play a role. Heavier and thicker bands will cost more than lightweight pieces.
7) Personalization: Lastly, consider personalizing your wedding ring. You can have your ring set with stones or finished with texture. Even "plain" rings can have a unique touch added to them by going for an unconventional width, profile or textural finish.
In conclusion, choosing a wedding ring can be an overwhelming task. But with the right information and guidance, you can find the perfect ring for your special day. Remember to consider all of the above when shopping around or undergoing the custom process. These factors will help you make an informed decision and choose a ring that you'll cherish for a lifetime.
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I often get asked questions on how to keep a sparkly new engagement ring sparkling. Most wearers of engagement rings don't know that there is a little upkeep involved in keeping your ring clean.
Not just to keep it shining on but also for hygiene reasons. Prongs and settings easily collect dirt and grime and it is important to keep it clean, especially in the age of covid-19.
My preferred method to clean your ring
What products and tools to use.
How often you should clean it.
Alternative methods of cleaning your ring.
First of all, a little information about engagement rings that I feel everyone should know before considering what type of ring or wedding band you would like to own:
Not all engagement rings are equal in their requirements for cleaning. Since engagement rings come in all shapes and sizes I am going to base my advice on a standard or classic style engagement ring. That is, a ring with a main centre stone such as a diamond, sapphire or topaz set in prongs or with openings in the setting. Large stones and rings with melee or intricate settings require a little more upkeep.
The methods I advise do not apply to "soft stones" such as opals or turquoise which I wouldn't recommend for daily wear unless you have researched those stones and know what they need from you.
A soft bristle toothbrush – I actually use an old ultrasonic toothbrush and keep it charged
A face towel or dish cloth of some kind
Any mild dish soap
Warm water
Optional – plastic bowl to work in
Ideally you'll want to do this in a plastic bowl of some sort. I don’t bother because I clean my ring whenever I remember (ADHD brain) and just do it over the bathroom sink.
I like to lay a microfibre towel over the bottom of the sink (can literally be any dish cloth of any kind). I do this for two reasons: it will protect your stone and ring if pops out of your hands from being all slippery from the soap and clanging around your basin and secondly it will stop it from falling down the sink plug hole and giving yourself a total nightmare of a day.
Diamonds maybe the hardest substance known to us but that doesn’t mean they aren’t able to split or chip if they happen to take a hard hit from getting dropped awkwardly. It’s unlikely, but take precautions.
I like to use a three-finger grip on my ring using my index, thumb and middle finger for stability. This grip means you don’t have to let go of the ring for any reason and can reach all angles. The potential for dropping your ring during this process is when you let go to change positions and get a better angle. Use one grip, as if you are pinching salt from a well and rotate your hand as necessary.
PSA – DO NOT plunge your ring under hot water if you have just been outside playing in the snow, there is the potential for your stone to crack from the rapid temperature change
Running the hot water tap, I place some dish soap on the toothbrush and hold the ring under the warm water to begin loosening some of the grime. Then I very gently start scrubbing my ring in circular motions. The idea is you want to spend about 5 minutes scrubbing your ring in a very gentle manner, don’t push up and into the stone as you don’t want to potentially loosen the setting or push out any melee you have set. The warm suds and toothbrush bristles will work their magic on any grime and then you simply rinse it under the hot tap.
Your ring is back to being as fresh and sparkly as when you first received it! Easy peasy.
You can apply this method to opaque stones too (because nobody wants a gunked up ring).
If you live in a hard water area you may notice a more rapid build up of grime simply due to the extra calcium in the water attracting dirt and oils. Sometimes this creates a plaque on moissanite which appears as an oil slick that can’t be removed by washing it. If this is the case for your moissanite, seek advice from a professional who works with moissanite for either a cleaning or advice on how to do it yourself.
An alternative method that requires hardly any effort is filling up a plastic bowl with hot soapy water and simply dropping your ring in there to soak. Leave it for 15 minutes and then run it under the hot tap. This works for light grime but you will probably find it's not as effective on heavy build up.
I don’t recommend an ultrasonic for anyone with melee in their ring. The ultrasonic waves can loosen these tiny stones and vibrate them out of their settings. I only recommend an ultrasonic for good girls and boys who take their rings to get cleaned and inspected professionally every six months.
Oh you didn’t know you had to do get your ring checked up on by a pro? Yes, sorry to inform you that you should be manually checking your engagement ring every now and then for loose stones. Especially if you have a diamond or moissanite. A loose stone can cut through a fine prong in a matter of weeks.
You should be checking your ring after every hard knock on a cabinet or any surface. If you see the stone moving, take your ring off straight away as it’s only going to get worse. Take it to the jeweller who made it and get your prongs or setting tightened.
Honestly, most people don’t get their ring checked on except when they see their stone is loose which will probably happen at some point in your life and multiple times if you have a large centre stone. As always, preventative measures are better than losing a stone and paying out of pocket for it to be replace.
Be good to your ring, you paid a pretty penny for it and if you want it to last a lifetime it means a little tender loving care.
I am choc full of ideas and designs and dreams but my goodness...trying to implement them just puts me into freeze mode and I just end up making repeated trips to open my fridge and see if any new food has mysteriously apperated.
Anyway, before I lost all my focus, which disappeared along with my self-restraint around all that Christmas food, I created a few christmas orders.
One of my favourites was this, a hand cut zircon birthstone ring, commissioned by a daughter for her mother.
It is another one of my modern cluster rings and contains a hand cut blue zircon, orange sapphire, aquamarine and two pink tourmalines. The piece was mad as a ring set so that when the stacker is worn next to the gemstone ring the gold nuggets compliment each other.
What a beautiful pop of colour to get us through this winter, what do you think?
]]>How amazing is it that two people can choose to be together for 25 years? I was honoured to be able to create something that reflects such a long lasting relationship.
For the 25th wedding anniversary, silver is traditionally given as a gift. We opted for a very non-traditional salt and pepper diamond with a heptagon cut - representing the strong and lasting foundation of a good marriage and set it in rustic silver with a matching stacking ring to accent it.
I adore how this piece came out, it's simple with two heavy prongs allowing the diamond to sparkle fully. Low profile with an open back this piece is going to get lots of daily wear, I know it.
]]>Some days I want to wear the daintiest of dainties like this ring I was recently commissioned to create. It's an upgrade of my Dainty Ring with an added milky pale blue sapphire. Isn't she beautiful?
Created in 14k yellow gold and bezel set with 2.5mm teeny weeny sapphire.
]]>Follow the rules and be in with a chance to win gorgeous zircon ring below!
]]>This gorgeous sunset-coloured cluster was commissioned by Tammy who was lucky enough to claim it on my Instagram!
The cluster is all sapphire deliciousness. One rough pink and three brilliant cuts in matching tones of orange, yellow and purple. Combined, they create the gorgeous exotic "sunset" the you see pictured.
Tammy opted for all prongs to preserve the rustic look she enjoys about my work.
I think it turned out beautifully, her chosen layout was shuffled around several times before we found the "right" way for the stones to sit. Tammy's eye was spot on in opting for this final layout.
If you'd like to create your own customised piece of jewellery, just drop me a line!
And don't forget to subscribe to my newsletter so you don't miss on claiming available clusters that I curate especially for my email subscribers!
]]>I set to work picking out the perfect stones. Mary's ring had a raw zircon as the main stone but Susanna chose a unique aquamarine that I personally cut and polished myself.
I then curated matching sapphires and a stunning brilliant cut zircon with a sparkle that I've never seen before.
Something super unique about this ring and what I want to continue doing is adding a "hidden" sapphire at the bottom of the band.
It makes for a magical little addition and is just for the wearer, a beautiful little secret.
Something else unique about this ring is the salt-cast sterling silver nugget. This is achieved by casting molten silver straight into salt! No result is the same and you can work the process over and over until you create the perfect shape. From that perfect shape you can select an even more perfect shape and saw, file and solder to perfectly fit your piece. It's a process I love because it certifies the piece as being a true one of a kind.
If you love this ring and want something similar for yourself or someone you love then get in touch!
Follow me on Instagram and watch my stories to get behind the scenes looks at how I make my jewellery.
]]>I made this piece with the image of Lake McKenzie in my mind. It's a stunning paradise-esque freshwater lake situated on Fraser Island. I visited many years ago when I was backpacking through Australia.
Each element of this necklace represents a part of that place. The hand cut slice of turquoise and dark lab grown spinel represent the gradient colour of the water, the green, natural sapphire represents the surrounding bush. The pale blue spinel is the sky and the gold nuggets represent the shoreline.
This is an extra special necklace for an extra special person. Perhaps you know someone with a September or December birthday who loves spectacular nature? This necklace would be the perfect gift.
If you ever get the chance to visit Fraser Island then do so. It's such a magical place.
You can purchase the Lake McKenzie necklace here.
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As a gift to you, I am running a promotion for a FREE pair of herkimer diamond earrings!
Specifically these herkimer diamond studs
Obviously, a lot of my designs fall into this category and none of my pronged pieces are made to withstand rigorous sports or activities. Though, I try and make sure my rings are as sturdy as can be as rings tend to take the worst hit when it comes to getting bashed about.
So what can you do?
Here's some of my common sense tips:
MAKE SURE your jewellery is the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off. No exceptions. Jewellery can damage your pretty (and expensive) sweaters but your clothes can also ruin your jewellery if you catch it and are not being careful. A little tip for you naughty folks with prong rings who often ignore this: swivel the stone round into your palm and make a fist when you run your arm through a sweater.
TAKE OFF your jewellery before doing anything requiring you to scramble around on rocks or doing sports. Not only will your team mates thank you for removing your jewellery, you can easily bend a prong, open a jump ring or lose a stone or pendant if you are not careful. This will also prevent your jewellery from getting all scratched up.
DON'T spray perfume over jewellery; we often don't know what crazy chemicals are in our perfumes and I have no idea if these could affect the patina or stones in a piece but my advice is: don't risk it.
NEVER and I mean never...put your rings in your jeans pocket. Trust me on this one. I've done it two too many times and bent my rings so out of shape that if I weren't a jewellery maker myself I'd either have to send it to someone for an expensive fix or throw it out. The rings I make in particular have fairly thin bands and will not withstand being crushed by denim and your mighty strong thighs.
DON'T leave it on the floor. About to do some yoga? Get a jewellery tray or ring holder for your nightstand and use it. Don't be tempted to take your rings off and put them on the floor next to you. If you leave it on the floor I guarantee you will tread on it and scream bloody murder at both hideous foot pain and your now beautifully bent ring. Or someone else will be in big trouble for something that wasn't really their fault.
WEAR it regularly to stop tarnish from forming. Wear it less regularly if you want to prolong the oxidised finish or get yourself some liver of sulphur. Click here for instructions on how to re-oxidise your pieces. Got some serious tarnish? Get yourself a Sunshine Cloth.
BUY or make yourself a jewellery hanger where you can store your necklaces. Spending thousands of minutes trying to untangle fine chain is the least amount of fun a person can have.
If you can think of anything else that is helpful at keeping your jewellery safe and undamaged then leave a comment!
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An 8 piece collection with free-moving parts, providing the wearer with an experience that goes beyond your everyday jewellery.
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or the gargantuan Moonlight Shadow Ring
Check them out for yourself! http://www.callirrhoejewellery.com/collections/one-of-a-kinds?page=1
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